This is me nerding out

August 30, 2008

Not sure if I mentioned it before, but all the the war memorials in Munich are super subtle and relatively hidden.  There are no big plaques or giant statues, just subtle reminders that are there for those who look (or, as in my case, for the most part) have them pointed out.  The theory being that the denizens of Munich don’t want to be reminded of their (Germany in general, Munich – Hitler’s favorite city – specifically) role in the clusterfuck that was WWII.  About 60% of the city was destroyed or damaged by the Allied bombings, so the city is a weird (but poignant) amalgamation of very old 13th century churches and wall fortifications, super modern synagogues, and modern recreations of 16th, 17th, and 18th century buildings built next to and on top of the remnants of the originals, thanks, ironically enough, to the fact that Hitler had his S.S. troops photograph the city in detail when he found out it was going to be bombed. Little tributes left by the architects or city-planners — bullet and shrapnel-ridden columns next to brand-new pristine stone.  Black-charred walls next to those (relatively) freshly painted.  It’s a weird juxtaposition but I like it.

Another thing I didn’t expect about Munich is the absurd amount of churches.  I didn’t know the city was founded by monks – hence its name, though I forget the details.  But all the churches I’ve visited in the past 4 days (which is 8 or 9, I’ve lost track) are all Catholic (or Greek Orthodox, maybe – signs were in German so I couldn’t tell, but the art looked a little too Byzantine to be Roman Catholic).  I guess I came here with the incorrect assumption that Germany, land of Martin Luther, the Guttenberg Bible, and the Reformation would be primarily Protestant.  This, obviously, is not the case.  Bavaria is actually mostly, and rather emphatically, Catholic.  Bavaria, generally speaking, adheres adamantly to their cultural roots and many people still identify as Bavarian before identifying as German.  Not that I know this first hand, sine I’ve yet to have a conversation of any significance with a German.  Or Bavarian.  But so I’ve been told.  One thing that gets to me though is that people don’t smile. You pass someone on the street and smile or nod and they completely ignore you.  Do I exist?  Am I invisible?  Are you a jerk? …

Another unexpected is that I’m normally – or at least have been in the past – a pretty intense museum person.  I love museums.  I spend hours in them, especially when they’re in foreign countries filled with stuff I’ve never seen before and will (probably) never again have the opportunity to see.  But I find myself, quite suddenly, profoundly anti-museum.  Granted, today was an absolutely lovely day so I didn’t want to spend it inside, but that never used to be a concern to me.  Anyway, I have yet to visit a single museum in Munich (Dachau excepted) and I can’t say I’m much bothered by it, just a little surprised at myself.  People watching and wandering has been more satisfying, at least for the moment.  For instance, I’ve noticed on 3 separate occasions, on the same street corner at the same crosswalk, 3 different couples making out.  And not just smooching, but hard-core make out sessions on the street.  Apparently this corner has some intense ju-ju that I need to tap in to.

Pictures will be added eventually, FYI, as soon as I figure out how. There are some on my facebook page if you are in desperate need of imagery to accompany the words.

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